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Topic: New to carpentry?
Replacing Veneer on Furniture BeeCee writes: Fri, 09/29/2006 - 10:59pm
It's actually a relatively simple project. The toughest part is likely matching the type of wood veneer used in the piece and then the finish color. But I'll walk you through it.
First, remove the old veneer from the entire top. You can do this by using a putty knife and get under the veneer where it has started peeling and work your way across until you remove all the old veneer. Next, lightly sand the surface to be sure that it is smooth - get all the glue residue up and off. Now take your matching veneer, you can find this at many specialty woodworking shops like Rockler.com, and prep it for placement. Usually these are adhered by using a brush on adhesive that is brushed on to both the top of the furniture and the back side of the veneer. Once it's dry, it gets a shiney appearance when dry), you'll then get ready to place the veneer on top. To place your veneer, it's a good idea to use a few dowel rods on top of your furniture and then place the veneer on top of the dowels. You're doing this so that you can adjust the veneer to the right positioning before touching it with the top of the furniture. Because once those two pieces touch, it's very difficult to get them apart. So you want to be sure that you're lined up correctly. Now starting in the center, slowly and carefully start pressing down to adhere to the top of the furniture. I usually use a rag wrapped around the top of my scraper and push outward in even strokes. The rag will protect your veneer as you're attaching. Once you've smoothed out the entire surface, ensuring there are no bubbles, let set for the required amount of time stated in the manufacturer's directions. Once dry, you can trim off the excess (parts of the veneer hanging over the sides) either with a laminate trimmer (like a mini router) or with a straight edge and a razor. Lightly sand the edges smooth with 150-220 grit sandpaper. Once you have wiped off all the dust, you can start finishing. If your piece was stained, match the stain and brush on to your new veneer along the grain. You may need to do a few coats (or even mix a few stains to get the right color and saturation). Finally, when completely dry, finish off with three coats of polyurethane to protect your piece. Some older furniture didn't have a sealent on it, so you may want to test the poly first to be sure you're okay with the look. But it will most definately protect the wood. Thanks for writing and good luck! CARPET TILES igarcia writes: Wed, 10/11/2006 - 3:01pm
I've watched your show regarding the carpet tile and are really interested in doing this for my entire apartment. I did a research at places like Home Depot and some carpet places and none carry the carpet tiles. Where can I buy it?
Make a curve with a jigsaw in 3/4" material kate writes: Tue, 11/14/2006 - 7:37am
Hi! I'm cutting out scoops with a jigsaw in cabinets I'm building.Doing a straight line is no problem but keeping control of the saw through the curve takes patience and strength because the saw resists it. Right now I cut further in than I want to then fine tune it with a drum sander.
Is there an easier way?
re:Make a curve with a jigsaw in 3/4" material jeffe_verde writes: Tue, 12/05/2006 - 7:55pm
If it's got to be extremely accurate, cutting wide of the line and following up with a drum sander is the way to go. But there are some things you can do to get a smoother, more accurate initial cut.
1) Most jigsaws have a switch to select between orbital and non-orbital cutting (and sometimes several levels of orbital). In orbital, the blade is thrust forward as it moves up and down - sort of a chomping motion; this chews through wood quickly but doesn't make for a smooth cut. When cutting curves, use the non-orbital setting. 2) Use the correct blade. A blade made for cutting curves will have more teeth per inch (TPI), and a much narrower profile when viewed from the side - about half the width of a regular blade. 3) Barrel-bodied jigsaws tend to be easier to control when cutting curves (because you're grasping it closer to the cutting surface). But with practice, you can cut smooth curves with a handle-type jigsaw as well. Practice cutting curves in a scrap piece of wood. Try rotating the saw with your wrist; then try holding your wrist locked and swinging your elbow out to pivot the saw. For very small radius curves, try placing the palm of your other hand on top of the saw, directly over the top of the blade, and use it to control the pivot point. 4) Unless the curves pieces are placed next to each other, slight differences in radius will be less noticable than curves that aren't smooth. If you focus on matching the cut line, you may end up with a choppy, irregular cut. Instead, focus on cutting a smooth arc. If you've been using a standard blade, you'll find that switching to a narrow, curve-cutting blade will make a huge difference. That and lots of practice cuts to develop a smooth arc. refinishing an oak kitchen tabletop shawn23 writes: Tue, 12/05/2006 - 9:38am
Hi:
I have an oak kitchen table set which,after 7 years of use,was in need of refinishing (only the table top). In search of a product that is more environmentally safe and food safe, I found Tung oil. I decided to give this a try. I sanded the table, and began to refinish with Tung oil, following the manufacturers steps, as well as the guidance of the customer service rep. at our local woodworking store. I have so far applied 4 coats of the Tung oil, after each coat lightly wiping with 0000 steel wool and buffing with a clean cloth. It looks nice, but so far, not much shine. Are you familiar with this oil, and can I achieve a greater shine if I keep applying more coats. Or once I wax (beeswax/carnuba wax), will this give it more of a shine? I am trying to avoid use of hard chemicals in this particular table. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
D.O.
I'd like to make a buffet amybeam writes: Fri, 02/16/2007 - 9:50am
I'd like to make a piece of furniture for my dining room to put linens and my nice glasses etc. I look at furniture pieces online and they seem pretty strait forward. I just want a cabinet essentially, no drawers but cabinet doors and legs. I have never made furtiture before though. Any tips? Any place where I can find plans for such a project? I don't have a table saw, but I have a chop saw. Will I need to get the wood cut at the store for me? If I plan on painting it what kind of wood should I use? What do I use to attach the wood pieces? screws? nails? those dowel things? Mostly I'm a bit intimidated by a project of this scale and would like some reassurance.
New to Carpentry pmac732 writes: Sun, 02/18/2007 - 7:33pm
I would love to learn carpentry. Right now I don't own any carpentry tools and would love to take lessons and purchase tools, saws, etc.
Any suggestions on how to begin? I'm not even sure the correct way to measure, etc.
thanks
Reading a Drafting Ruler breehaw writes: Wed, 04/04/2007 - 3:33pm
Help! I just bought a (3-sided or triangular) drafting ruler. My architect tells me that a room drawn on my plans is 14'11.5" x 10'10.5". The plan tells me it's a 1/16th" scale, but I can't figure out how he comes up with the dimensions!
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Doors
ew writes:
Wed, 09/27/2006 - 2:37pm
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