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Topic: roller marks

Thu, 09/21/2006 - 5:02am
roller marks


i am painting red on a dinning room wall it was primed with gray and now after 5 coats i still see roller marks anyone know why?

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roller marks

info writes:

Thu, 09/21/2006 - 5:02am

Hi Pat,

A few quick tips that may help:

1. When using a strong color on the walls, its always a great idea to start with a tinted primer. That is, have the paint store tint the primer using the same hue as your top coat color. That way, not only will the primer cover the old paint color, but it will give you a closer color to your final color so you need less coats. Usually 1 coat tinted primer and 1 top coat will do.

2. How long in between coats did you wait to paint? Often, if you do not allow them to fully dry in between coats, additional coats will not create any more depth. You should allow at least several hours, preferably 1 full day (depending on humidity and temperature).


3. Did you paint up and down in straight lines, or back and forth in a "W" pattern? The latter is the best way to paint a wall to avoid streak lines or roller marks on the edges.

4. Worst case scenario, depending on the texture of the walls (eg. flat vs. a textured "popcorn" type walls), you may need to LIGHTLY sand the roller lines with a "super fine" (220 grit or higher) grade sandpaper. After this, you will need to re-paint the wall. Be sure to get a good, thick texture roller appropriate for your wall type, and paint in the "W" method.

Good luck and your painting!

Be Jane

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Roller Marks and Red Paint

emjones35 writes:

Thu, 09/21/2006 - 11:20am

I had the same problem when I started painting my dinning room red. It was a semi-gloss latex (Ralph Lauren) and it showed roller and cut in marks. When working with Semi-gloss latex, you really can't let the paint dry. It needs to stay went to properly blend in. I solved this by buying a Wagner Pro-sprayer. Yeah, it took 4 hours to prep the room, ceiling, floors, wood work and stairs, but it was only 1 1/2 hours to paint and the room is beautiful. No lines, no marks, just a great finish. To speed up the prep work, go to Walmart (best price) and get some 3' plastic sheeting that already has adhesive tape. Blue tape your ceiling, for the straight lines, then put the pre-taped plastic sheeting up to cover about 3' in on the ceiling. Make sure the plastic overlaps well. Do the same around any molding and woodwork. Get longer plastic to cover windows and doors. There is also a 5' pre-taped plastic that works well. Take large tarps or plastic and cover the furniture and all of the floors. Yes the prepwork is long, but spraying is a breeze. I found that using the tube directly to the paint cans was easiest, as sprayers have a tendency to spit when they are low on paint. Wagner comes with both an attachable jug, or a long tub that you can just plop right in the paint can. Go in gentle strokes left to right, starting at the top of the wall down. Make sure that you have protective clothing, long sleeves, long pants, hat, gloves, goggles and a respirator as the overspray and paint mist does get pretty heavy. Ventilate the place well. While it seems like a lot, the end results are well worth it.

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