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Power & Hand Tool Glossary

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Abrasive stone file
A file used to finish custom cuts on ceramic tile.

Acid flux brush
Used to apply flux to copper fittings.

Adjustable bevel square
Use this square to transfer any angle accurately.

Adjustable wrench
A wrench with an adjustable head to accommodate various sizes of nuts and bolts.

Allen wrench
Hexagonal wrench used in conjunction with screws or bolts with recessed hexagonal heads.

Aluminum bench level
A mechanic's bench level that is extremely stable and lightweight.

Aluminum file
Addresses the problem that ordinary files pose when used on soft aluminum, which is clogging. The scalloped-tooth pattern cuts cleanly and leaves a fine finish.

Angle driver
A unique tool that simplifies work in corners and at awkward angles. It holds a driver bit at a 60-degree angle to the bladed. Turning the handle rotates the bit. Bits are stored in the handle.

Angle grinder
A tool found mainly in metal and auto-body shops, it is useful to woodworkers and do-it-yourselfers, as well. Does well cleaning up pitted or rusted metal surfaces. Can smooth out welded seams and, when properly equipped, cut metal. Ideal at metal finishing.

Angle meter
A versatile tool used to measure any angle easily, including level and plumb. Features an easy-to-read dial.

Automatic center punch
Allows one-handed operation by pressing down on the tool and a spring-loaded mechanism strikes a blow. More precise than using a hammer and punch.

Awl (also scratch awl)
Ideal (and necessary) for all types of precision layout work and general scribing.


Back saw
Perfect for the fine, accurate cut. Includes the dovetail and tenon saw. Distinguished (from other hand saws) by a stiff length of brass or steel set over the top edge of the saw blade, providing support for the blade and preventing the blade to twist or flex.

Ball peen hammer
Featuring a hardened head, it's used for striking cold chisels and punches for general metalwork. The ball peen was originally used to mushroom rivet heads. Sizes 8 to 32 oz.

Band clamp
For clamping round, oval and odd-shaped pieces. Features a nylon band and ratchet mechanism. The clamp is tightened by turning a handle. Can be adapted into a multi-angle (or corner) clamp by adding corner blocks, with the nylon band running through the blocks and final pressure added by the handle. Ideal for frames and objects with corners.

Band Saw
The more versatile of the curve-cutting saws, the thin blade allows work to be maneuvered easily and accurately along a winding line of cut as well as in and out of tight corners. Able to make straight cuts such as rip, crosscut and miter and possibly bevel and compound miter (with a tilting worktable). The band saw is capable of performing a whole range of cuts, such as ripping, cross cutting, beveled cuts and, yes, curves. You'll find it is also excellent for re-sawing boards. What makes the band saw even better is that it is a relatively safe saw. Only a small portion of the blade is visible -- the rest is hidden away in the machine's casing -- and the blade cuts downwards, pushing the wood onto the base rather than pulling against it.

Bar clamps
Suited for jobs that require strong clamping pressure. Permits two-handed tightening. Available in ranging capacities. Ideal for joining boards to make wider panels.

Basin wrench
A specially designed wrench for removing or installing mounting and coupling nuts on faucets. It can be made for plastic fittings or metal piping.

Bayonet saw
The bayonet saw (a.k.a. jigsaw) is one of the most versatile saws you will ever own. It takes the place of a band saw, a scroll saw and even (to a more limited extent) a circular saw. As such, it is typically the first power saw you should consider buying. The major limitations you'll find with a bayonet saw are it's ability to cut in a straight line and the thickness of cut. Really, anything thicker than about 1 1/2" is too thick for most bayonet saws. Belt Sander Belt sanders are used to remove large amounts of wood in order to roughly sand the wood to shape. For example, if the wood in question has small ridges in it, a belt sander can be used to flatten these out. Powerful and able to remove stock aggressively, this tool is fitted with a coarse abrasive belt that can grind down door edges and trim uneven frames. They come in a range of different sizes. It is important to note that a belt sander is an intermediate step in the finishing process. Once you have roughly sanded the wood to shape with the belt sander you will still need to use an orbital or palm grip sander to get a smooth finish. Bench Grinder Critical for a complete workshop, a grinder can buff, clean, polish, sharpen and remove rust, among many uses.

Bench level
Designed primarily for machinists, it's a highly accurate level used for all types of precision work.

Bevel-edge chisel
For use in fine cabinetry work; features a chrome-vanadium steel blade and double-hooped boxwood handle. Boxwood is considered to be the best wood for tool handles because of strength and shock-absorbing qualities.

Bevel-edge square
Useful when extreme accuracy is required to determine 90-degree angles.

Bevel gauge
Although it is a close relation of the square, its purpose is actually to help fabricate pieces that are not square. The tool consists of a handle (or stock) with an attached tongue (or blade). The tongue fits into a groove cut into the head of the stock where it's fastened with a locking mechanism. Often the tongue is made of thin steel and the stock of wood, plastic, or metal. To put the tool to use, hold the handle or stock against an edge with the tongue stretched across the piece you are working on. The tongue can then be shifted to assume any angle between zero and 180 degrees. When the bevel gauge is set at the angle you want, tighten the bolt and wing nut or lever device to set the tool at the desired angle. It makes what could be a difficult task easy to do well, such as matching an existing angle. Set the gauge then move the bevel gauge onto the stock (wood) from which you'll be cutting the identical or companion piece. No geometry or arithmetic, just marking and cutting.

Bevel protractor
Read, transfer and mark angles quickly and accurately with this tool.

Block plane
Designed for trimming end grain. Also used for smoothing small wood pieces and for edge-planing plywood, particle board and plastic laminate.

Bow saw
Ideal for pruning, landscaping work and sawing firewood. Tubular steel frame with blade-tensioning lever that snaps closed to form a handle.

Brick mason's hammer
Indispensable masonry tool; designed exclusively for setting and splitting bricks, masonry tile and concrete block. Forged-steel head with a square striking face opposite a flat, sharp cutting edge. Should never strike metal, including a brick set or stone chisel.

Brick saw
Used in sawing bricks. Features coarse-cutting blade that cuts on both the push and pull strokes.

Brush and roller spinner
Used to spin off excess water out of brushes or roller covers after cleaning.

Brush and tool extender
Use this square to transfer any angle accurately


C-clamps (including a bench vise)
Similar to the vise grip but offers a wider opening. Holds objects in place while sawing or joining. Feature clamp pads that protect the surface and allow for gripping tapered pieces. Ideal for laminating or veneering.

Cabinet rasp
The quickest way to remove woodworking stock is with this. Has a round and flat face.

Cabinet scraper
Available in three basic shapes: rectangular, straight with concave and convex ends, and gooseneck. Works by cutting, not abrading, the wood. Excellent at smoothing wood. Sharpened by burnishers.

Cabinetmaker's screwdriver
Features a turned oval beech handle and a blade designed for wood screws. Part of the blade is flattened to handle a wrench if more torque is needed.

Calipers (outside and inside)
These two tools are designed for accurately transferring and measuring outside and inside dimensions. Invaluable to woodturners. The bowlegged caliper is used to measure outside dimensions, with the straight-legged caliper measure inside.

Cam-action clamps
Light and medium duty, as well as veneering, clamping. Cork faces won't mar delicate work. The cam works as a lever to apply varying degrees of pressure.

Carpenter's square
I know from the sound of it you expect a four-sided figure - when it actually a giant L shape. The dimensions are usually 2-inches-wide, with one 24-inch long leg at a 90 degree angle to a 1-1/2-inch wide, 16-inch long tongue.It's most common use is for framing, laying out and marking patterns for framing, roofing, and stairway work. It's also useful as a straightedge for determining the flatness of surface, and for marking cutoff work on wide stock. It goes by many different names including rafter square, builder's square, or roofer's square - I'd say it's more because this is a tool that has lots of uses.

Circular saw
A voracious tool, the portable circular saw is critical to any building or framing project because it can cut lumber quickly, with power and with accuracy. They are great for cross cuts (cutting across the grain) on large or thick planks of wood, as well as for ripping (cutting along the grain). Circular saws are fairly accurate when used freehand as the size of the blade keeps the tool roughly on the straight and narrow. Because of this, the circular saw is a favorite for quick cuts when accuracy is not an issue. However, the saw can also be used for more accurate cuts by using a guide or fence to make sure that it stays on the correct path. Furthermore, when you need to cut a beveled edge (i.e. an angled edge) the circular saw is often your best bet.

Chalk line
Useful for marking a straight line, this tool features a line that is reeled out from a chalk-filled canister, hooked at one end of the intended cut line, tensioned and snapped.

Chisel plane
Excellent for removing glue and trimming work. Features a blade that extends in advance of the body, so the plane can be used to reach the farthest corner of a joint to get it clean.

Clamp
The clamp is a simple tool, made up of a pair of jaws drawn together with a tightening mechanism, typically a screw drive. When working with wood in particular, a clamp is essential for pulling together the pieces to be glued and for holding them tight and flush until the glue sets. The two most common types are c-clamps and bar clamps. C-clamps have jaws in the shape of the letter C, with metal shoes at the top and bottom to grip the work piece. Bar clamps are usually larger, with a fixed jaw at one end of the bar and another on a tail slide that moves up or down its length. The pressure is exerted by both C-clamps and bar clamps by the screw drive, typically driven by a T bar that forms a handle. A new innovative version of the traditional bar clamp is called the quick-grip clamp. We love the fact that the locking mechanism is done with pistol-squeeze action. While they don't have the same clamping power as bar clamps, they do have cushioned jaws and take it from us are easier to use.

Claw hammer
When you think of a hammer, the image of a claw hammer usually comes to mind. The head has a face that is used to drive nails; on the opposite side of the head is a two-pronged claw used to pull nails out of wood. Typically the head made of steel, and the handle of fiberglass, wood (typically hickory), or steel. Fiberglass and steel hammers usually have rubber, plastic, or vinyl handles for a sure grip and shock absorption. We suggest a good general purpose hammer is moderate in size, weighing around 16 ounces with a 16-inch handle. When you are searching for one, you will find that the heads vary greatly, with flattened or curved claws. We find a smaller hammer is best for finer work; though we suggest you go larger if driving large nails is in your near future.

Clutch-head screwdriver
Features a distinctive bow-tie shaped head that drives screws featured in mobile homes, cars, boats, appliances and electric motors.

Cold chisel
A stone-cutting tool that has an integral handle and blade made of steel. The handle is struck by a hammer to cut material. It can cut sheet metal, remove rivets, bolts, nails or cut away ceramic tiles adhered to a surface.

Combination hand vise
Indispensable for holding all types of small parts securely; can be fitted on a handle or on a clamplike mechanism to secure it to a work surface.

Combination square
A valuable tool, equipped with a six inch long steel rule for marking 90-degree and 45-degree angles. As with any square, it's principle job is to advise its user when the two sides of an object are at a true 90-degree angle.

Compass saw
Similar to a coping saw, but more heavy duty. A thin blade set into a pistol-grip handle, it quickly cuts curves, circles and cutouts in wood, plywood and wallboard. Useful for cutting access holes when installing pipes and electrical boxes. A smaller version is the keyhole saw.

Compound miter saw
Miter saws replace the traditional miter box, the wooden box that allowed you to cut wood with a hand saw at angles of (typically) 45 and 90 degrees. We've used it for many different molding and trim projects (chair rail, crown molding, baseboard, etc.) though can also be used with a measuring accessory for cutting frames. Basically a chop saw with a tilt mechanism added to the pivoting head. Miters are set by rotating the tool's turntable and the head is tilted for bevel cuts.

Construction chisel
Designed for rough carpentry, framing and construction. Made of a single piece of hand-forged alloy steel.

Cordless drill
All the benefits of a corded drill, but without a tether. Allows you to work on top of a ladder, on damp ground and without the tangles of a cord. The tradeoff is that a cordless may not be able to handle more rugged work or have quite the power of a corded.

Corner chisel
Used for cutting clean, sharp inside corners. Perfect for the serious woodworker and tool collector.

Cranked-neck rasp
Ideal for carefully shaping flat or slightly concave surfaces and is especially useful in woodcarving.

Crosscut saw
Hand saw used to cut across the grain (the width of the material).

Crutch-pattern screwdriver
The large, flattened-oval handle of this screwdriver allows you to deliver tremendous torque to stubborn screws, especially in tight corners.

Curved-tooth file
Widely used in auto-body work and on aluminum and sheet metal, it features deeply cut, curved teeth for fast cutting and reduced clogging of soft material.


Dead-blow hammer
Strikes blows without damaging the work's surface. The tool's hollow head is partially filled with small metal shot, which reduces rebounding.

Dog-leg chisel
Skewed blades are ideal for trimming joint work in furniture making and for undercutting.

Double square
This unique tool is designed for checking squareness of a board's edge after planing and jointing. Fit's easily in a work apron pocket.

Dovetail saw
The most important of the back saws (and one of the smallest). Almost entirely dedicated to one function: cutting dovetails, where a clean and accurate saw cut is the hallmark of fine work. Have three handle designs: closed, pistol-grip and a turned spindle-like handle.

Dovetail square
Lays out and marks dovetail joints with consistent accuracy.

Drill press
Extremely versatile tool for hole boring, the drill press bores a variety of holes accurately and easily. It can also sand, rout, polish, saw, shape, grind, sharpen and mortise. Used in both metalworking and woodworking.

Drywall hammer
Designed for installing drywall, this hammer has a milled striking face opposite a hatchet blade. Use the hatchet blade to score the drywall to permit snapping it along the scored line of cut.


Electric drill
If you've never used one before you find this is one versatile tool - it drills holes, sands, grinds, stirs paint, and drives screws. The basic electric drill consists of a motor built into a pistol-shaped body. Where the drill bit is inserted there's a gripping device called a chuck. Older models lock the bits in place using a key that tightens the chuck, but most new drills use a keyless which you just tighten by hand. It's a good innovation, making bit changes much quicker and easier. Many people prefer the cordless version due to the ease of use but for a light weight version with extra power, the corded version may be perfect.

Electronic level
This tool makes use of blinking lights and a beeping signal to indicate level, plumb, pre-selected and unknown angles.

English bow saw
Curves and straight lines can be cut accurately with a bow saw. The blade can be rotated 360-degrees to a convenient working position. Historically used to cut chair legs, arm and arches.


Finishing sander
Finishing sanders come in two main types: block sanders and random orbit. Although either tool can be used as a finishing sander, they excel at different applications. Random orbit sanders are better for sanding large areas quickly. However, finishing/block sanders provide a better finish while also have the obvious advantage of being able to get closer into the corner as they do not have a circular base like orbital sanders. Further, block sanders can use standard sandpaper that you cut down to shape, while random orbit sanders need specific circular sheets and this can make the running cost higher. If you only have the money for one of these sanders, we recommend a block/finishing sander. While it will take longer to get a good finish, the end result will be far better.

Firmer chisel
Designed for heavy-duty work such as timber framing. The heavy blade can keep the chisels from flexing under heavy work loads or from mallet blows. Ideal for cutting and fitting joints in hardwoods, paring and fitting.

Flooring chisel (also electrician's chisel)
All-steel tool used primarily for ripping up old wood strip flooring. Used to notch house framing for installing cable and electrical boxes.

Four-in-hand file
If you only own one file, this should be it. Has both round and flat surfaces and each side of the file has a double-cut and rasp-cut end.

Frame clamp
Uses corner blocks and long-threaded rods with sliding speed nuts to assemble square, rectangular and other oddly-shaped work pieces. Ideal for frames and objects with corners.

Framing hammer
For use by house framers. Features an extra-long handle, ripping claw and checkerboard face that reduces glancing blows and flying nails.

Fret saw
And adjustable frame can hold blades up to six inches, which allows you to use broken blades. Similar to a coping saw but with a deeper "throat" which allows it a deeper reach to cut further away from the edge of the work. Great for fine, detailed work.


Graduated straightedge
Indispensable for scribing perfectly straight lines and checking the flatness of a surface.


Hand saw (also panel saw)
Even in this age of power tools, the traditional handsaw has many uses. It is the most common and recognizable of all handsaws. The basic handsaw has a blade roughly two feel long that tapers from the heel (at the handle) to its toe. It's quiet, portable, easy to use, requires no electrical power, and can finish more than a few jobs the basic hand-held circular saw cannot. It's also inexpensive and poses little risk to little hands. Two basic types: crosscut and rip. It is most effective when used to cut large, wide or thick pieces of wood. The most common use is simple cut-off work when it's quicker to grab a handsaw than it is to run an extension cord to do the job with a power saw.

Hand screws
Traditional woodworking clamps, hand screws feature solid maple jaws and dual handles that allow for tremendous pressure. Can be set parallel or at angles. Ideal for complex work with no parallel sides.

Heavy-duty drill
Perfect for propelling large multispur bits, Forstner bits and hole saws. Necessary for tasks such as boring fist-sized holes.

Hook chisel
Features a harpoon-like tip for light finishing cuts on delicate pieces and hard-to-reach areas.


Insulated screwdriver
Designed for use by electricians, the blade is covered in plastic sheathing with only the tip exposed. Only a protective measure because it should never be used as protection against a flow of electricity.


Jack plane
All-purpose and most useful of all bench planes. Used to smooth rough boards and flatten uneven surfaces.

Japanese panel saw
Although it looks like a standard Western hand saw, actually a Japanese tool. The unique tooth design helps reduce friction at the beginning of the cutting stroke while increasing the cutting action throughout the stroke.

Joint-maker's square
Slightly smaller than a standard miter square, this square is especially helpful for furniture builders and model makers.


Keyhole saw
A small saw with a short, narrow blade and a tight turning radius. Smaller than a compass saw, it can also cut light metal.

Keyway rasp
A combination rasp for shaping wood.

Knife file
Used by tool and die makers, it is excellent for tight, acute angles.


Laser plumb bob
Improves on one of the world's oldest tools by emitting a laser light that indicates exactly where to mark, with no guesswork involved.

Locking pliers
These adjustable pliers can be used as a hand-held vice or clamp. They lock firmly onto a work piece, usually made of metal. They are also known as plier wrenches, lever-wrench pliers or Vice grips. What makes them different to other pliers is the double-lever action of the jaws. Like other pliers, the jaws of the locking pliers are closed by squeezing the handles together; unlike water pumps, electrician's, and other pliers, the jaw opening is adjusted by turning a screw drive in one handle so the jaws will close with a vice-like grip. A trigger on the other handle loosens the grip, which can apply tremendous force. They are sold in several designs (with long nose, flat-jawed, and even C-clamp jaws), but the standard design has serrated, straight jaws. For a basic toolbox, a pair in the eight- to ten-inch long range will have the most uses.

Log saw
Designed for crosscutting logs and large timbers, it comes with 15 sets of three teeth. The teeth are separated by deep gullets that remove sawdust quickly. Cuts on both the push and pull stroke.

Long tape (fiberglass)
Measures extended distances accurately. Tape is made of tough fiberglass that resists stretching and won't rust, kink or conduct electricity.


Machinist's vise
Designed to be bolted to a worktop. Able to swivel on it's base. Useful for holding metal pieces and provides an anvil surface for striking metal.

Magnetic bevel finder
A pocket-sized tool that is actually four tools in one: a level, protractor, square and pitch gauge. Excellent for measuring and transferring angles, as well.

Magnetic-tip screwdriver
Enables you to carry one screwdriver instead of four or five by storing five bits in the handle. The shaft is fitted with a magnet that allows the bits to hold steel screws securely.

Marking gauge
Used to lay out wood joint lines-of-cut. Designed for marking with the wood grain, it scribes a very fine, precise line more accurate than a pencil line.

Mill file
The most common single-cut file. Used for sharpening circular saw blades, draw-filing, lathe work and anywhere else a smooth finish is required.

Miter Saw (
also chop saw)The power alternative to the miter box, miter saws are great for basic crosscuts for lumber and trim. Although not capable of beveled or compound-angle cuts, they are simpler to use, durable and less expensive than compound or sliding compound miter saws.

Miter square
Designed exclusively for laying out and marking precise 45-degree angles. An oversized blade accommodates large workpieces.

Mortise chisel
Has a straight, non-beveled edge, unlike a standard chisel. Designed to take a heavy pounding and prying.


Nail-holding hammer
A magnet set into the head grips an iron or steel nail. One sharp strike starts the nail.

Nail puller
Has a V-notch, which slips under the nail head and a long handle to provide extra leverage to pull up a nail.

Nail sets
For use when a nail head is to be sunk below the work surface. Tips can vary: point, flat or a cup, which permits firm location on the nailhead. Cushioned grip versions can protect your hands, allowing you to concentrate on the work and not your knuckles.

Narrow-belt sander
A good sander for narrow spaces and tight spots. Easy to maneuver, but doesn't do well on wide surfaces.

Needle rasps
Tiny rasps ideal for model-making or detailed carving and fitting. Come in varied shapes: rectangular, tapered, triangular, round, half-round and square. For metalwork, needle files are available.

Nest of saws
Great for homeowners, this tool is actually four saws in one. The tool comes with three interchangeable blades to handle cutting jobs around the home and yard. Features a hardwood pistol-grip handle. Quick-change wingnut and bolt hold the steel blades in place. ninety-degree corner clamp. For accurate 90-degree joints, allows for gluing and nailing while the pieces are secure. Can be screwed to a bench top.


Orbital sander
Great for finishing work, the square pad can sand inside corners. Should be used with care, because swirl marks can show up when sanding dense hardwoods. Accepts sheet sandpaper.


Paring chisel
The design allows you to make light finishing cuts with the blade flat on the stock, even when working in the middle of a wide board.

Pincer
Essentially a large nail puller and cutter, a pincer is designed for removing brads and small nails. Can pull nails like a claw hammer.

Pinch dogs
Perfect for edge gluing, they pull joints tightly without the need for clamping. The dog is hammered into the butt ends of the work.

Pipe clamp fixtures
Long reaching fixtures attached to a pipe, that, once positioned, are tightened by turning a handle. Only pipe length limits capacity. Ideal for joining boards to make wider panels.

Plastic-tipped hammer
A steel-core hammer that features two replaceable plastic faces-one hard, one soft. The hammer can strike various materials without marring, including wood, metals, plastic and stone.

Plate joiner
A tool designed to quickly and accurately cut matching slots in pieces that are to be joined with a small carbide-tipped blade.

Plumb bob
It employs the laws of gravity to establish what is "plumb" (exactly vertical) - you don't need a graduate degree in physics to understand that a string suspended with a weight at the bottom will be both precisely vertical AND perpendicular to any level plane through which it passes. The plumb bob, obviously, is the companion tool to the level. You can make your own plumb. To do so it can consist of most any bit of string with a weight tied at its end (a couple of washers, say, or a lead sinker from a fishing line. But the factory-made plumb bob has a specially designed weight and coarse string of twisted cotton or nylon threads (masons prefer the nylon because it stands up better over time to the dampness that comes with working with water and mortar). Well machined and balanced bobs have pointed tips, too, that make them more precise to use. It's also known as a plumb line. Pneumatic Nailer or Nail gun Framing: Perfect for frame construction. The most powerful of the air-powered fasteners, it can drive nails up to 3-1/2-inches long. Pin: Used for attaching trim, carpet strips and moldings. Finish: Useful for installing siding, flooring, door and window casing and most types of finish carpentry.

Pneumatic stapler
Can drive crown-style staples up to 1/2-inch wide and two inches long. Smaller models are great for installing carpeting, roofing felt, floor underlayment and insulation.

Pruning saw
Excellent for trimming trees and bushes, the curved blade folds back into the curved hardwood handle for convenience.

Pry bar
Has a curved blade to fit behind molding or between two sections of an object that are to be separated. The long handle provides leverage to pry the sections apart.


Quick-action clamps
A workshop favorite designed for easy operation, the lower jaw slides easily on a bar and locks securely in position under the slightest pressure.


Rabbet plane
Has a wide blade which is ideal for trimming narrow dadoes and rabbets.

Random-orbit sander
A convenient, one-handed tool that is driven by an electric motor that spins a shaft on with a mounted counter-weight. Between the weight, the spinning shaft, and an offset thrust bearing produces a random, varying motion. In plain english, it spins and wiggles, but never the same way twice, and best of all it does a neat job, producing little or no scratching across the grain. With this tool you can sand in any direction. We also love the fact that the motion tends to clean the sandpaper evenly, avoiding the clogged surfaces common to straight-line sanders.

Reciprocating saw
An indispensable tool for contractors and remodelers, the "recip" saw will chew through most any cutting task. Ideal for demolition tasks, such as wall removal. Can cut through wood, metal or plastics easily. Great at cutting rough openings, cutouts for plumbing and heating ducts and can even prune tree branches.

Right-angle drill
Allows you to reach around a corner or into a confined space to bore holes or drive screws. Great for smaller jobs such as drilling pilot holes or driving screws inside a cabinet.

Rip hammer (fiberglass, wood and solid steel)
Great for rough carpentry work, this 22-oz. hammer has a straight ripping claw. Many workers prefer fiberglass-handled tools because they are virtually unbreakable and more shock-absorbent.

Rifflers
Tools for shaping and smoothing details that other files can't handle. One end is fine, the other end is coarse.

Rip saw
Hand saw used to cut along the grain (the length of the material).

Router
Portable power tool that, when fitted with one of a myriad of bits, can do such things as cutting cabinet joints (dado, rabbet, etc.), trim plastic laminate, shape decorative edges, mill moldings and carve signs and plaques.

Round file
Standard file for cleaning up or enlarging holes and shaping tight internal curves. Works on metal or wood.

Rbber and plastic mallets
Use these mallets to strike blows without damaging the surface. Useful for assembling furniture parts, setting dowel pins, metalwork, etc.


Sabre saw
If you need the ability to follow curved or straight lines, cut metal (as well as plastic, brick, etc. with the right blade) or enclosed holes, reach for this tool. A popular tool, the unique design provides relatively-safe cutting.

Scroll saw (or jigsaw)
The scroll saw is used for freehand cutting intricate shapes in relatively thin wood. The scroll saw uses very thin blades that allow you to cut very small radius curves. When in use, it operates with little vibration, quick blade changes and easy-to-operate clamps. Is stationary, as opposed to a sabre saw, which is portable. Because of its thin blade, the scroll saw is often the only solution when you need to make very delicate cuts, such as for inlays

Sharpening stones
Blocks of natural or artificial stones that have been dressed or smoothed. Used with an oil or water lubricant to sharpen blades of woodworking tools such as chisels and planes. Most are rectangular in shape and come in many grades, from coarse to fine.

Sliding bevel square (or T-bevel)
Indispensable for marking, transferring and checking angles. Helpful when marking odd angles and dovetail joints and when cutting a board to fit an existing angle.

Smooth plane
Designed for general-purpose planing; often used after the jack plane for final polishing.

Speed square
One of the most popular and versatile carpenter's layout tools available, combining the best features of a framing, try and miter square with the angle finding capability of a protractor. Use for all framing layout work including wall and roof construction and stairway building.

Spiral-cut chain saw file
Featuring a special spiral-cut pattern, this file cuts faster than standard, round chain saw files.

Spiral-ratchet screwdriver
A spring-loaded shaft turns the driver bit, driving screws quickly and easily.

Spring clamp
Ideal for holding mitered corners, each jaw has tiny teeth that grip and hold angled work pieces, irregular moldings and tough-to-clamp joints. The "paperclip" of the workshop, ideal for small work and light pressure.

Square file
When needing to make a round hole square, this is the tool. The long, tapered profile makes it useful for cleaning up right-angle shapes such as slots and keyways.

Square-recess screwdriver
A square-tipped tool drives square-recessed fasteners in items like recreational vehicles, boats, mobile homes, hobby equipment and furniture hardware.

Staple gun
It can be used to fasten all kinds of materials in home construction and maintenance work. Roofing contractors, insulation installers, carpenters, and all kinds of homeowners and hobbyists find a multitude of uses for staplers every day. It is the big brother of your every day desk stapler. Though is ammo is bigger, as most guns take staples that are 1/4 to 9/16 of an inch. You'll find the width of the staples will vary depending on the manufacturer. They come in hand-powered and electric models. Electric models are faster and easier to use; another type, the hammer stapler is swung like a hammer. It's great for construction jobs but not for delicate ones.

Squeeze clamps
Light duty clamps applied with one hand with an automatic advancing squeeze handle

Steel straightedge
Worth the price and a staple of most workshops. Etched gradations provide better accuracy. A T-Square is formed by adding a head to this tool.

Studfinder
The essential tool for locating wall studs. Crucial when hanging heavy objects.

Super shear file
Designed for work on softer metals, iron, annealed steel, plastic and hardwood. Has an offset circular tooth that cuts both fast and smooth.

Surform tools
Versatility and speed make these tools the good choice for shaping wood, body filler, fiberglass, aluminum and other soft materials. The round Surform is ideal for roughing out tight curves and shaping holes.

Swan-neck mortise chisel
This unusual-looking tool is extremely helpful in smoothing out the bottom of mortises. The curved blade is used like a lever to scrape the mortise bottom flat.


Table saw
The table saw is a useful addition to any workshop as it allows you to rip long planks of wood very easily.

Tack hammer
Perfect for driving small brads and tacks. Has a magnetized head that holds the tack for one-hand starting. Goes easier on the thumb and forefinger. Tape measure Few tools translate to so many trades-from dressmaking to home building, it's versatility will help to show you that home improvement isn't rocket science. The basic tape measure is typically spring loaded so when it's not in use the tape retracts into its metal or plastic case. The tape measure itself is also called a blade and can come in 1/2 , 3/4, and 1 inch widths. Wider tapes can be bulkier but will allow for farther extension without the help of support at the other end. We suggest a 3/4 inch for most typical home improvement projects with a 16 to 20 foot length.

Tenon saw
Fine-toothed hand saw used to cut tenons and other wood joints accurately. Similar to a back saw, but shorter to offer greater control.

Three-way edging clamp
Used to apply and repair moldings, decorative trim and edging. C-clamp design with a third screw that applies right angle pressure to the edge.

Torpedo level
No tool box is complete without one. Back-pocket size makes it ideal for work in restricted areas. Typically they are 9-inches long and are tapered at both ends. It is also known as a canoe or boat-shaped level. Inside the plastic, wood, or metal body are two or three spirit tubes. These are sealed vials containing water, alcohol, or another clear liquid. Each tube or vial is slightly curved with two parallel lines drawn at its center. The vial is not quite full, leaving space for an air bubble. Believe it or not, this bubble will let you know if something is level or not. The bubble vial has been precisely mounted so that when the bubble is aligned between the hairlines, it indicates that the body of the level - and thus the object being trued - is at true vertical or horizontal. This will depend upon how the vial in mounted in the level.

Trammel points
Allows you to scribe a large diameter circle or arc, or transfer measurements that are too great for dividers.

Two-handed screwdriver
Features a unique double-grip handle that allows you to apply extra high torque. Can work in deep holes and narrow spaces.


Universal clamps
Designed for cabinet framework, these clamps can be secured to the edge of a work to hold two pieces together. Ideal for holding drawer supports, shelves and butt joints.

Upholsterer's hammer
The magnetic face of the hammer makes it easy to start upholstery tacks and small nails. Also called a tack hammer.


Finishing sander
Finishing sanders come in two main types: block sanders and random orbit. Although either tool can be used as a finishing sander, they excel at different applications. Random orbit sanders are better for sanding large areas quickly. However, finishing/block sanders provide a better finish while also have the obvious advantage of being able to get closer into the corner as they do not have a circular base like orbital sanders. Further, block sanders can use standard sandpaper that you cut down to shape, while random orbit sanders need specific circular sheets and this can make the running cost higher. If you only have the money for one of these sanders, we recommend a block/finishing sander. While it will take longer to get a good finish, the end result will be far better.

Firmer chisel
Designed for heavy-duty work such as timber framing. The heavy blade can keep the chisels from flexing under heavy work loads or from mallet blows. Ideal for cutting and fitting joints in hardwoods, paring and fitting.

Flooring chisel (also electrician's chisel)
All-steel tool used primarily for ripping up old wood strip flooring. Used to notch house framing for installing cable and electrical boxes.

Four-in-hand file
If you only own one file, this should be it. Has both round and flat surfaces and each side of the file has a double-cut and rasp-cut end.

Frame clamp
Uses corner blocks and long-threaded rods with sliding speed nuts to assemble square, rectangular and other oddly-shaped work pieces. Ideal for frames and objects with corners.

Framing hammer
For use by house framers. Features an extra-long handle, ripping claw and checkerboard face that reduces glancing blows and flying nails.

Fret saw
And adjustable frame can hold blades up to six inches, which allows you to use broken blades. Similar to a coping saw but with a deeper "throat" which allows it a deeper reach to cut further away from the edge of the work. Great for fine, detailed work.


Vise-grip hold-down clamp
Squeezes objects together to promote bonding.

Violin plane
Small plane used for precision finishing and decorative work.


Warding file
Designed for shaping and trimming notches in locks and keys. Double cut on the faces and single cut on the edges. The tapered profile makes it useful in situations where an ordinary file won't fit.

Warrington hammer
The woodworker's choice of hammers, it has a cross-peen which enables you to start small nails and brads, then finish hammering with the opposite end.

Wet saw
If the job is cutting several bricks, pavers or tiles, this tool uses water to keep the blade and brick cool as well as decrease dust and flying debris.

Wood (lignostone) mallet
Use this mallet for striking wood and plastic-handled chisels and gouges, for installing dowel pins and assembling wooden parts. Have tremendous resistance to cracking.

Woodworker's vise
Indispensable for the workshop. A solid investment for a workbench. Has smooth jaws designed to not damage wood.




Zigzag folding rule
Classic woodworking rule that is better for measuring longer runs.

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